PARIS WINTER 2011 WRAP
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Another great season & so beyond hectic...
I worked all day, every day in Paris (yes - attending show is considered work!!) & went out every evening for dinner with different industry friends from all over the world who I have connected with over the years as a result of my many buying trips: sales agents, heads of commercial teams, stylists, editors, designers & even other buyers... And we always try the new latest restaurant & also visit old favorites... It's so great to be in & amongst the action, speak fashion & purchases for the bulk of the conversation & not have to be embarrassed or apologise for it!!!
Usually best friends who live abroad come to visit me & hang in Paris... On this trip Alexandra Keating arrived to stay with me a few days into my trip & it was so much fun even though we were on completely different schedules. She was out all night partying, being fabulous & coming home right about the time I was surfacing & getting ready for my first appointment of the day...
My favourite show of the week was MUGLER because Lady Gaga performed. It was right at the start of the week & truly amazing & a major trip highlight...
But what captured my attention the most this season, wasn’t a fabulous show or a brilliant collection, but rather the strange under current of industry 'fogginess', with lots of talk about the major shake-ups & changes: from the Galianno fiasco to all eyes being fixed on the new French Vogue Editor, Emmanuel Alt & the missing Carine Roitfeld from the front row; the head of commercial at Comme Des Garcons, Tony Newsham was missing & the Balmain designer, Christophe Decarnin resigned & wasn't even at his own show...
So much gossip & so much more than usual... There was lots to speculate over & consider... Who's taking over from whom? Will they do a good job? What will happen next? Who is the best? Who has fallen short? Who are the new ones to watch...?
Blah Blah Blah… Fun Fun Fun!!
Following is my account, my little ‘insider SCOOP’ of the Paris Autumn/Winter 2011 shows...
This is where I gather so much of the inspiration for my selections for next season. And it is within my showroom appointments, that I pick the hottest, most fabulous pieces, from catwalk collections, for my clients at Parlour X.
So take a peak at my view of the best of Paris Fashion Week...
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Thierry Mugler
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For his debut women's RTW show, creative director, Nicola Formichetti called on his friend & top client, Lady Gaga to perform her latest song & lead the models down the runway. The show was fast & furious, Sometimes the models looked quite alien & creature-like other times they were simply andgrodenously spectacular. But it was Gaga that stole the show. Her theatrics & ability to manage those impossible platform heels far better than any model, caused an absolute media frenzy. What a scene, definitely my highlight show of the week!The show referenced much of Thierry Mugler’s signature peaked shoulders but had Formichetti’s unmistakable, Skin tight, slick, out-of-the-ordinary, controversial edge.Love that Parlour X have the Australian exclusive for Mugler! Take a look at this AMAZING jacket that I have picked up for the store…. One of MANY!
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Lady Gaga for Thierry Mugler Runway
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Isabel Marant
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Isabel Marant Runway
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Last seasons show was a Californian theme and this
season the show remained in America but went tribal. The shows are
always filled with the best of the best models in the industry that
manage the cool, effortless chic style that Isabel Marant seemingly
created and now everyone is obsessed with!As usual seriously cool
French chic – but this time Isabel Marant had taken a wild ride to
Central\Native America with Navajo as her inspiration. Lots of sexy,
fringing dresses perfect for Australian Summer!How good is this show
dress… It also will come in black & then variations of this style
in the same plain loose knit but without the fringing!
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Vionnet
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This showroom was by far the most creative. They staged the mannequins.
Vionnet hosted a private presentation instead of a catwalk show but all the most influential fashion identities were present.
The collection was amazingly beautiful and one of my most favourites of the week. Vionnet designer Rodolfo Paglialuna found his inspiration starting point online, turning the image of a black and white knot he discovered into a swirling graphic patter that could almost be floral, take a look at one of the dresses interpreted into a orange/ blue print Parlour X are bringing in…LOVE!
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Junya Watanabe
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Junya Watanabe Runway
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Leather featured in a big way on Junya’s Paris catwalk, There were leather jackets and more dresses too, taking on a sash-like or warrior quality, perfectly exemplifying a fighting spirit. This coming season all the variation were so inspirational… I particularly loved this tunic dress& not just because you can wear it in so many ways but because it’s actually quite flattering on the figure as well, and it also comes in chocolate.At the show as I watched the girls walk the runway all I could think was it was the best looking faux leather I had ever seen… Ha! To my surprise in the showroom, it was REAL! Still ever globally conscious & will never use fur, the use of leather was interesting to say the least. At Parlour X we are ANTI FUR too… But we do sell leather. |
Balenciaga
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They tiled the Crillion floor with Balenciaga’s tile print of the season especially for the show !!! So super cool ! A beautiful show. The shoes set the tone …Nicolas Ghesquire left behind his biker punk girl of last season to replace her with a much more feminine and ladylike counterpart. Visiting Balenciaga’s showroom is always one of my favourites, take a look at Balenciaga’s print of the season shot in the showroom. Floral is huge for summer but hard to get a floral right…Of course Nicolas Ghesquire nailed it, this print is totally divine. This particular floaty blouse will be perfect for our summer season!!! |
Carven
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The Carven Paris runway show was actually an intimate media presentation.
The collection true to spirit was fun and wearable & consisted of layered separates that slid easily between being smart & neat, &kooky & playful.
In particular what caught my eye for the store was this blue lacedress. LOVING this colour. Blue hues are still huge going forward…but the lace styled the right way is also soft, feminine, edgy & fabulous!!! We actually have this piece coming in Khaki lace too…
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Carven
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Theyskens’ Theory
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One of my new favourite labels, Theyskens’ Theory just keeps getting better.
Olivier Theyskens’ knows how to cut an amazing jacket. Visiting the Paris showroom and seeing the collection in its entirety, allowed me to envisage the theme: poetic grunge-meets-Victoriana.
Putting all this aside & getting down to basics, Theyskens’ Theory surprised me by producing the coolest Ts & tanks, that I want to wear right now!!!!
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Comme des Garcons
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Visiting the Comme showroom is always an adventure, To see what else Rei Kawakubo has presented for the season further to what was shown on the catwalk in Paris.
Always inspiring to see the show, this time at Hôtel de la Monnaie. One of my favourite pieces I picked up from this collection is this twisted knot detail shirt that is so quirky & super cool & so Comme!!!I ordered an extra one just for me!
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Viktor & Rolf
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So pleased that we have brought Viktor & Rolf back to Parlour X!
This collection that was picked up for the store took cues from knights armour this season because, the Dutch designers said
"We felt the need for protection”
"Fashion's ever-increasing speed reminds us how important it is to battle for our creativity.”
(Quote taken from Style.com)Viktor & Rolf always have a story to tell and this time is no exception.
As the drawbridge came down & models piled onto the catwalk, the cohesive collection didn’t fail to inspire & influence …
This dress appeared towards the end of the show and knew that it would be perfect for the store! |