With the arrival of Spring/Summer 2013 mainline collections at Parlour X, I was excited to see the pieces I had chosen in January in Paris in the flesh!
When the first model strode down the runway for Balenciaga’s Spring/Summer 2013 show, no one expected that it would be the last collection Nicolas Ghesquiere would present as the Creative Director of Balenciaga. Self described as “the most sensual collection I’ve ever done”, Ghesqueire’s last collection for the iconic French fashion house was as extensively-referenced and conceptualized as his previous collections. Inspired by Balenciaga archives – notably ruffles from a Cristobel Balenciaga dress circa 1968 - asymmetric ruffled skirts and cropped boxy blouses came down the runway in tones of black, white and grey. Heart shaped necklines featured in sleeveless and long-sleeved dresses and blouses, knits dipped in glue for stiffness and the block heeled Derby shoe glided down the runway. Now that this collection has arrived at Parlour X, Ghesqueire’s fine attention to detail can be fully appreciated. Our favourite is the understated and chic Vanity box bag which has just arrived in store.
Parlour X favourite Isabel Marant and her unrelenting fascination with Americana combined with Parisian chic is evident in this season’s “Elvis in Hawaii” collection. Laid back bohemian luxe is reflected in high hemmed paisley studded skirts, Hawaiian emblazoned cotton blouses, assymetric one shoulder dresses like the Natacha dress as seen on fashion darling Sienna Miller and strappy embellished gladiator sandals like the Caroll sandal, a favourite of bloggers Jessica Stein of Tuula Vintage and the effortlessly cool Leandra Medine of the Man Repeller. As always, Marant’s statement jackets were the highlight of the show, with the studded Craig Leather Jacket and embroidered Johnson Jacket proving why Marant has the cult-like following that she does.
Junya Watanabe’s technical design and edgy creative aesthetic was apparent in his futuristic Spring/Summer 2013 collection with models floating down the runway in mirrored headwear and second skin silhouettes in neon, black and primary hues. The combination of mesh paneling and Puma sneakers endorsing Watanabe’s recent collaboration with German sportswear brand Puma reflected one of Parlour X’s favourite designers raw edge and unique sense of style.
Postage stamps and bank notes representing the connection of cultures and tokens of the past are the inspiration for Mary Katrantzou’z Spring/Summer 2013 collection. Boxy shirts, A-line and shift dresses, tailored blazers and slim-cut trousers in summery purples, blues, greens, yellows and contrasting monochromatic black and white evoke this spirit of adventure and travel. This collection marks Katrantzou’s first foray into denim with a collaboration with Current Elliott..
The Peter Pilotto Spring/Summer 2013 collection is a scene straight from a Mumbai Spice Market with vivid shades of bright colours oozing Eastern inspired chic. Mirrored embellished skirts and intricately beaded and embroidered dresses decorate this collection. Print has been pushed with new three dimensional patterns engineered onto textured fabrics reflected on the R Jumper and onto ruffles and flounces of skirts and dresses to create a ‘rippling’ effect.
Hedi Slimane’s eagerly anticipated womenswear debut for the house of Saint Laurent has been eagerly welcomed at Parlour X with the Spring/Summer 13 show reinventing elements of the House whilst paying tribute to the understated chic and elegance of the brand. A 1970s mood filled the air as models powered down the runway in 1970s Californian glam rock chic inspired wide brimmed hats, cigarette trouser, sheer pussy-bow blouses and billowing floor sweeping chiffon dresses. Although Saint Laurent will always remain decidedly French it would seem that Slimane intends to take the French icon to Venice Beach!
Think of 1950s chic a la Audrey Hepburn and “Roman Holiday” and you’ll find yourself in Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli’s latest collection for Valentino. Embroidered cashmere blouses and seamlessly cut lace slip dresses, A-line day dresses and simple shift dresses ooze the romanticism of the feminine Valentino aesthetic. The sleeveless embroidered macramé lace dress featured in noir and the classic Valentino red is our stand out piece featuring a sleek, tailored A-line silhouette and delicate scalloped edges.
Now onto AW13/14 Pre-Collections.....